Friday is National Pizza Day, and NBC 5's Steve Dolinsky shares the story of how a suburban pizzeria owes its success to an African American cook from Mississippi.
No matter what you’ve heard over the years, Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo did not “invent” deep-dish pizza. The version we have today is more likely a result of Alice Mae Redmond’s work. The Greenville, Mississippi native moved here during the Great Migration, made deep-dish for more than thirty years, then decided to pass along her expertise to one man.
Brian Coli opened Georgio’s Chicago Pizzeria & Pub in Crystal Lake more than 20 years ago.
A second location in South Barrington came later. Both feature Chicago thin, a-k-a tavern style, as well as deep-dish; the latter from a recipe handed down from his father, Michael, who in turn, got it from Alice Mae Redmond. Redmond cooked at Uno’s and Due’s in the 40s and 50s, then helped open Gino’s and later Gino’s East. She retired in 1989, but a year later, helped Michael Coli open Old World Pizza in Elmwood Park.
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“He asked Alice if she would come over and help him how to make deep-dish pizza; she came over and taught him how to make it,” said Coli, owner of Georgio’s. “You know without her we wouldn’t be here today.”
Redmond was the first to add a significant amount of oil to the dough, to help it stretch in the pan. In this 1990 video, notice the yellow oil container on the counter, then check out what Georgio’s still uses today.
“We make the dough fresh every day but we’ll keep it for a few days before you can use it. Let it develop that flavor,” he said.
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After it’s pressed out in the pan, slices of mozzarella are shingled over it, then your topping – usually pepperoni or sausage - and finally, the deep red California tomato sauce spread by hand, followed by a light dusting of grated Romano. The more impressive technique comes after the pizza is baked. Ever wonder how they gracefully remove a deep-dish pizza to a cardboard base before cutting?
“These guys are amazing at what they do,” said Coli.
Cut and served, the crust is akin to biscuit dough – flaky and firm. No silverware necessary. Coli says they’re also proud of their tavern-style pies – the sausage-giardiniera is a crowd pleaser – but it’s the deep-dish that will always remind him of Redmond, whom he met when he was just 10 years old.
“It’s an homage to Alice Mae Redmond, and her dedication to the pizza. She was gracious enough to share the recipe and we carry that forward today,” he said.
Here's where you can go:
Georgio’s Chicago Pizzeria & Pub
75 E. Woodstock St., Crystal Lake
815-459-8888
100 W. Higgins Rd., S.Barrington
847-844-1988
