As immigrants from India and Pakistan arrived in Chicago in the 1960s and 1970s, they typically made their way to West Rogers Park, along Devon Avenue.
But over the years, more and more South Asians have re-settled in Schaumburg and Naperville, and that means great restaurants have followed.
There are probably more tandoori ovens per capita along Devon Avenue than anywhere in the region, but as families there grew and moved to the suburbs, strip malls in Schaumburg and Naperville have been the beneficiaries of new grocery stores – like Patel Brothers – but also homey restaurants where they do not compromise on the flavors.
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Steaming pots of chai can be sipped – or paired with the vegetarian-friendly snacks at Chai Ho Jai - The Tea Room - in Naperville. Paninis and parathas are homemade, but try one of their dozen or so hot tea options, many perfumed with hints of cardamom.
The grill and the rotating oven are the focal points at Naansense, which started in the Loop several years ago, but just opened a gleaming new store in Naperville in January.
“I really wanted to share this Indian culture, this Indian experience and my Indian experience via America,” said Hiran Patel, the founder of Naansense.
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Patel said the fact there are so many South Asians in the area helps him introduce bold flavors in a fast-casual concept.
“The community in Naperville has a really large Indian population as well. So I think a lot of consumers here that we’re trying to attract have had some exposure to the Indian market,” said Patel.
Sauces are paramount.
“They start from mild to sweet-savory to your vindaloo – peppery, fiery, vinegary, hot. I think a lot of consumers in the States have started to understand “spice” versus “spicy,” he said.
25 years ago, Indian Harvest was a pioneer, serving a growing community. The chef got his start on Devon Avenue, then at India House downtown. He hasn’t compromised one bit.
“That is one thing which I have avoided over the years, that, you know keep it as authentic as possible,” said Sanjeev Pandey, the chef of Indian Harvest.
Many dishes have an onion or tomato base (or both).
But it’s the spices that shine here: mustard seed, cardamom and cumin, to name just a few. Turmeric is used to marinate fish seared in a vertical tandoor oven, while chiles and fenugreek leaves grace an assertive vindaloo.
“The name itself tells it: it’s vinegar and alo, which is potatoes,” he said.
A base of ginger and garlic are sauteed with turmeric, chili powder and garam masala – a spice blend – for their harvest saag, or spinach.
“Tempered with mustard seeds and cumin. Little bit of garlic first then we saute some onions, fresh spinach leaves and mustard greens mixed in there,” he said.
Pandey says while older restaurants might be focused on white tablecloth dining, the younger generation in the suburbs caters to a fast-casual clientele.
“Now we see a lot of quick service restaurants with chaat – which is a quick bite – and spicy, sweet and savory dishes,” said Pandey.
There are also a number of great South Indian restaurants now out west, and that means vegetarian. None more popular than A-2-B, an India-based chain with nearly a hundred locations, including its only one in Illinois - a massive store in Warrenville.
3027 English Rows Ave., Suite 101, Rt 59, Naperville
178 N. Franklin St., Chicago
312-285-2278
1211 E. Ogden Ave., Suite 105, Naperville
331-226-2987
796 Royal St. George Dr., Naperville
630-579-9500
28244 Diehl Rd., Warrenville
