NBC Chicago's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky is devoting each week in March to an iconic restaurant in the city.
This week, he’s off to Paris - by way of Bucktown - where a 30 year-old bistro continues churning out the classics.
The memory of Jean Claude Poilevey is everywhere at Le Bouchon. On pictures and paintings - his spirit dominates the cozy French bistro, which turned 30 last year. Since 2016, his sons Oliver and Nicolas have been in charge. They haven’t changed much.
“We like to keep a nice mix of classic and some of the new stuff that we’re doing,” said co-owner Oliver Poilevey.
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A Lyonnaise salad is a fine start.
“A salad for people who don’t like salad. Bacon and croutons that are crisped-up in bacon fat. Mustard vinaigrette with frisee and escarole. You want the egg to run out and emulsify into the dressing,” he said.
French onion soup is another classic.
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“We make a beef stock. The key is carmelized onions, doing it nice and slow and really being patient with it. A little sourdough crouton; some Swiss and Gruyere on top of that,” said Poilevey.
The crock is placed under a broiler until the cheese is golden and charred.
“Cheesy, beefy…”
Escargot is another staple of the menu. They’re snails, just FYI.
“Basically escargot is just a vehicle for the butter. Dip that bread in the butter all the time and get a little of that escargot in there…it’s a timeless dish,” he said.
The whole roasted duck is a show-stopper. Presented tableside then carved and served on a platter with cabbage and spaetzle.
“Actually Julia Child one time she came in here and ate the whole duck by herself. She had an appetite, though, but for most people it’s a two to three-person dish. Red cabbage and some spaetzle, so kind of an Alsatian type preparation. Sauce Bigarade which is kind of like an orange, Gran Marnier sauce,” said Poilevey.
Crème brulee – another classic with its scorched sugar cap - reminds you why it’s been around for so long with its subtle sweetness. Oliver is quick to credit Chef Waldo, who has outlasted everyone.
“He’s worked here since the beginning, since Day 1, 1993. He’s our chef and he’s basically the heartbeat of the restaurant; this place wouldn’t be here without him,” he said.
As for maintaining their parent’s standards, Poilevey said the fact there is so much of them in every fiber of the restaurant keeps him and his brother grounded.
“It was hard because everything reminds you of them but, for me it’s like a blessing to have this place with their spirit inside it,” said Poilevey.
Here's where you can go:
1958 N. Damen Ave.
773-862-6600
