Get out your knife and fork and dig into our extended lunchtime reading today:
1) Israeli paper Haaretz takes on the Jewish deli today, saying that some forward-thinking deli owners in Berkeley are trying to make the classic latke and pastrami menu more earth-friendly and sustainable. Karen Adelman and Peter Levitt, owner of Saul Deli down the road from Chez Panisse, argue that the way Americans conceive of delis these days is not how Jews desired it: "That mile-high, fatty pastrami sandwich served at Katz's or the Carnegie Deli? American, not Jewish, they say. Jewish cooking a century ago was all about thrift, seasonality and resourcefulness. Every part of the animal was used; portions were small; tomatoes were served in summer, and beets in winter." The pair have been trying to make their deli fare more farm-to-table, but have gotten push back from stalwarts who say it is no longer an authentic deli experience. More on how delis around the nation are adapting to new food trends, over at Haaretz.
2) This weekend, legendary British chef (and a pioneering woman in the industry) Rose Gray passed away. Writer Hugh Fernley-Whittingstall, who toiled under Gray for a time at the famous River Cafe, has written a nice essay for the Guardian praising his former boss: "She had an amazing knack for simply explaining exactly how she felt a particular dish should be made, or a particular ingredient handled. You only had to hear it once and you understood."
3) Finally, a devastating earthquake hit Chile this weekend, rocking buildings, lives, and its major culinary export: wine. Dr. Vino has the scoop on how vineyards are faring after the destruction, with this telling quote from a winemaker: "One can smell wine along the roads in front of the wineries. Tanks laying, collapsed buildings, barrels and glass everywhere."