They’re the kinds of places you take out-of-towners, to really show off your city. Whenever I have colleagues or chefs in town, I always take them to a place that’s been in the West Loop since before the West Loop was cool.
Where Chef Paul Kahan’s vision of simple food executed at a high level is the mantra, and where you might end up sharing something – a dish or even a conversation - with your neighbor.
For as simple a design as it is – Swedish sauna-meets-submarine-galley-kitchen – avec has been a mainstay on West Randolph for two decades, thanks to its impeccable food and service.
They opened a larger sibling in River North more recently, but it’s the original that still has the buzz, and three dishes that have never left the menu.
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“The dates, focaccia, brandade. Those three stay as-is, unedited from the original recipes,” said Chef Dylan Patel. “Two things that we always keep on the menu are a whole roasted fish and a pork shoulder."
The wood-fired oven is a focal point for two of those classics, like the dates, nestled in a rustic sauce of piquillo peppers and tomatoes.
“Dates are stuffed with a housemade Spanish style chorizo, so a lot of paprika, a little bit of vinegar, cayenne pepper. And then we’ll wrap ‘em with one whole strip of bacon,” Patel said.
The Food Guy
The focaccia is another classic from the oven.
“I like to call it the adult grilled cheese,” he said.
Dough is rolled flat, baked until almost done, then carefully split in half, spread with soft tallegio and ricotta cheeses, plus oil; launched back into the oven for about a minute, then cut tavern style into large squares.
Patel does have free reign to get creative, like his roasted shrimp containing a shrimp paste and saffron butter, mixed with a hot sauce containing rose petals and earthy guajillo chilies.
A shallow pool of reduced fish stock and butter houses lime and soy-soaked jalapeños – an idea Patel got from visits to Bob Chinn’s. He tops them with a seared mackerel filet, then a spoonful of ground olives and pistachios.
There’s beef too. But not another predictable filet or strip. Rather, hanging tender, from the end of the chuck roast.
“It’s very meaty, super lean, and has a good beef flavor,” Patel said.
On the base is Marcona almond puree with sherry and olive oil alongside charred radicchio leaves tossed with fresh parsley, endive and mint. A bit of chili oil adds a final punch of mellow heat.
“This is the food we like to eat, I don’t froof it up to make it fancy for diners. Stuff I cook Sunday night for my family, and it’s just down-home good food,” Patel said.
615 W. Randolph St.
141 W. Erie St.
