Black History Month is underway, and NBC 5's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky says if you’re going to take a look back at Chicago’s Black history, you have to look closely at barbecue.
Specifically, the method of cooking. It’s unlike Texas or Carolina ‘Q and unique to Chicago.
The Great Migration brought tens of thousands of families to Chicago in search of jobs and opportunity. It also brought traditional cooking methods from places like Kentucky, Mississippi and Arkansas, which includes a style of smoking unique to Chicago’s South and West Sides.
For the last five years, the Trice family – James and Tonya, along with their kids, James Junior and Miranda – have been putting in long hours at Slab BBQ in South Shore, directly across the street from the train line. It’s a labor of love, with roots near the Ohio River, more than five hours south of Chicago.
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“My father is from the South – from Paducah, Kentucky – and I just brought the tradition to Chicago,” said James Trice Sr.
That tradition begins with wood of course. A lot of it. Oak fuels the large, aquarium-style smokers, which must be fed constantly into the bottom, burned until they’re charcoal.
Spare ribs, rather than baby backs, along with their tops - known as rib tips -a are marinated for two days in a dry rub. Along with hot links, the meat cooks directly above the flames – the opposite of indirect cooking in Texas and Carolina. The only way to prevent overcooking is having a Pitmaster constantly hose down the flames. It’s hard work.
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“Because you’re constantly putting the fire out with water, so that it won’t cook too fast and burn the food up,” said Trice.
Unless you specify otherwise, orders come topped with homemade French fries – they use red potatoes rather than Russets – a couple of ladlefuls of either hot or mild sauce and a slice of bread.
Most orders are carryout. They also offer turkey tips, as well as turkey links.
“Some people don’t like pork, so we ended up doing the turkey tips, the turkey legs,” he said.
And sides are a must. All homemade. From vinegary greens and smoky baked beans, to bright orange candied yams and warm, comforting mac and cheese. Trice says he’ll expand the space later this year, but that won’t change his menu.
“We sell mostly tips and sides,” said Trice.
Here's where you can go:
1918 E. 71st St.
773-966-5018
