In China, it’s rice. In France, bread of course. And in countries like Colombia and Venezuela, the arepa forms the backbone of the cuisine.
NBC 5's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky has been searching for a few good versions as a way to kick off Hispanic Heritage Month, which starts Friday. There are several options for the arepa in Chicago, and all use the same brand of corn flour, but they get creative when it comes to the fillings.
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Understanding the arepa provides a window to Venezuelan cuisine. At Bolivar & Lincoln, just a few blocks south of Wrigley Field, three brothers took it upon themselves to share their culture.
“We see it as a way of being ambassadors of our country and beyond our country, our people,” said Alejandro Balza, the co-owner of Bolivar & Lincoln.
Corn flour, salt and water are turned into dough, which is formed into thick discs then cooked.
“It’s kind of like a round pocket that is baked over a griddle,” he said.
Split open then slathered with butter, they’re primed for fillings. One example: avocado, mayo, cilantro and spices are pureed, then folded into pulled chicken to make a one-of-a-kind salad, stuffed into the pocket along with shredded gouda cheese.
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Like several versions around town, they’re stuffed beyond the normal range of most people’s jaw hinges.
A few blocks south, on Belmont, the tiny 11 Degree North also honors Venezuelan culture with its homemade arepas.
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Split then stuffed with a dozen or so options, including that chicken-avocado-mayo mixture, as well as the Pelua – jammed with sweet plantains, shredded beef, garlic cilantro sauce and a handful of shredded gouda.
In Uptown, El Rincon de Fabio offers nearly a dozen arepas; all of the dough is made by hand, formed into thick discs that are griddled, split open and stuffed. Not just with the usual beef, beans and plantains, but also veggie versions with sauteed mushrooms, carrots and cabbage.
Be sure to try their lemonade made from sugar cane and lime.
In Ravenswood, Bien MeSabe has been a neighborhood favorite for nearly eight years. It also has a second location in the Loop.
“It represents for us a lot of our tradition, our culture, our everything,” said Pedro Ron, the owner of Bien Mesabe.
Like everyone else, they use the PAN brand of corn meal for their dough, but rather than rely on eye-balling, they use a custom press to form their discs so they’re all the same width.
Shrimp is sautéed with onions and peppers for the Mochima - it’s stuffed with a springy, stark white cheese and giant wedges of avocado. The Llanera, meanwhile, features grilled strip steak.
“It’s made with beef on the grill, handmade cheese, pico de gallo and avocado,” said Ron.
Ron says the sandwich has its fans, especially among his gluten free customers.
“And definitely they love it,” he said.
Here are places you can go:
3349 N. Sheffield
773-360-8203
824 W. Belmont Ave.
773-904-7284
1002 W. Argyle St.
773-654-3650
1637 W. Montrose Ave.
773-549-5538
29 E. Adams St.
312-285-2911